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T-Minus Slipper-Sock

Supplied courtesy of lvBOOKS at


This web page and all contents (pattern, pattern variations, scans, text, etc.) are Copyright © 2005 by Linda Victorek/lvBOOKS. Pattern may be used for personal use.


Named thusly because this is a variation of what I call the “T slipper”. To make a “T slipper” you knit a sort of T-shape, fold it in half to make an L-shape and then sew the back & front of the L to turn it into a <ta-da> slipper. Since this slipper starts out with a T-shape that isn’t wide enough to wrap entirely around the foot or ankle, “T-Minus Slipper Sock” seemed like a reasonable enough label for it.

Be forewarned, if you don’t care for short rows this isn’t a project for you.  I used short rows because I'm a lazy girl & don’t care for hand sewing. The short rows technique allows me to work the T-shape and then have live stitches to knit on in order to fill in the gap & no hand-sewing! 


Since a pix is worth a thousand words, here are a couple of scans that show what I'm talking about, shape-wise.

The scan above shows about half of this weird T-shape. (My scanner isn't large enough to show the whole thing.)  The heavy blue line indicates the cast-on edge.

On this side, the scan has been rotated and the sole area has been faded to show the sort of "L" shape that forms the side of the slipper. The blue line is the back of the leg.




Materials: about 4 -5 oz. worsted weight yarn. Size 6  needles.

Approximate Gauge in garter stitch,  9 ridges  = 2"

Size: fits my size 9 foot.

Abbreviation:  INC = knit in front and back of next stitch.

I did my best to proof this & double, treble check the numbers but you may have to bring something to the table, as it were.

THE CUFF & BACK OF HEEL: This is the head of the T. The cast on edges will, eventually, be brought together & sewn…or, if you’re lazy like me, you’ll just cast on to a crochet chain which, when removed, will result in live stitches and you’ll do a 3-needle bind-off.

CO 61 stitches & knit one row.

1.) Right Side:  K27, (Inc, K1) 3x, Inc, K27.  <65 sts>

2.) and all even numbered, wrong side rows, knit

3.)  K28, (Inc, K1, Inc), K3, (Inc, K1, Inc), K28  <69 sts>

5.)  K29, (Inc, K1, Inc), K5, (Inc, K1, Inc), K29  <73 sts>

7.)  K30, (Inc, K1, Inc), K7, (Inc, K1, Inc), K30  <77 sts>

9.)  K31, (Inc, K1, Inc), K9, (Inc, K1, Inc), K31  <81 sts>

Work even on 81 sts until the width is 3”.

THE INSTEP:  Brace yourself. This is where the short rows start.  Cut the yarn. Slip the first 18 stitches to the right-hand needle.  Re-attach yarn to start knitting in the 19th stitch.  You might want to use markers to provide a visual reminder where to turn.  For my part, I always have a green marker at the start of the row & a red at the end.  I’ll knit to one stitch before the marker, slip the stitch to the working needle, remove the marker, slip the stitch back & put the marker on the needle in front of it. Moving the markers this way helps me know when I should turn instead of constantly counting off the stitches.

1.) Starting in the 20th stitch, K41, Turn.

2.) K40, Turn

3.) K13, INC, K11, INC, K13, Turn.

4.) Repeat row 2.            5.) Repeat row 3.            6.) Repeat Row 2.

7.) K39, Turn

8.) K38, Turn

9.) K12, INC, K11, INC, K12, Turn.

10.) Repeat Row 8.        11.) Repeat Row 9.        12.) Repeat Row 8.

13.) K37, Turn.

14.) K36, Turn.

15.) K11, INC, K11, INC, K11, Turn.

16.) Repeat row 14.        17.) Repeat row 15.        18.) Repeat row 14.

19.) K36, Turn.

20.) K35, Turn

21.) K10, INC, K11, INC, K10, Turn.

22.) Repeat row 20.         23.) Repeat row 21.        24.) Repeat row 20.

25.) K33, Turn

26.) K32, Turn.

27.) K9, INC, K11, INC, K9, Turn.

28.) Repeat row 26.        29.) Repeat row 27.        30.) Repeat row 26.

31.) K31, Turn.

32.) K30, Turn.

33.) K8, INC, K11, INC, K8, Turn.

34.) Repeat row 32.        44.) Repeat row 33.        45.) Repeat row 32.

THE TOE:  A few more decreases and then the toe is “turned”  -- this is similar to the directions you’ll find for “turning the heel” in sock patterns.

1.) K29, turn.        2.) K28, turn        3.)  K27, turn        4.) K26, turn.        5.) K25, turn.

6.) K24, turn.        7.) K23, turn.        8.) K22, turn.        9.) K15, K2Tog, turn.

10.) K10, K2Tog, turn.

Repeat row 10, until you have just completed a wrong side row & there are 12 working stitches left.  By this, I mean there will be 12 stitches left that have not be worked-off in a short row.

FRONT PANEL:  This fills in the T-shape so that the slipper will fit around the ankle & foot. No more short rows. Cut the yarn.  Slip all stitches onto the left-hand needle. Re-attach the yarn & knit two rows.

Option One – Squared-off at toe:

1.) K37, K3Tog, K7, K3Tog, K37.         2.) Knit

3.) K36, K3Tog, K5, K3Tog, K36.         4.) Knit

5.) K35, K3Tog-3X, K36.                      6.) Knit.



Option Two – Rounded at toe:

1.) K36, K2t, K2, K2t, K1, K2t, K2, K2t, K36.        2.) Knit

3.) K36, K2t, K1, K3t, K1, K2t, K36.                     5.) Knit

5.) K35, K2t, K3t, K2t, K35.                                 6.) Knit.


BTW, row 6 could be a bind-off row if you’re planning to sew the center front seam. On the other hand, you can divide the stitches onto 2 needles and do 3-needle bind-off instead. At this point, the slipper pretty much folds in half and the back of leg is formed by bringing the cast-on edge together & sewing…or, as noted earlier...much earlier...way back when, in fact,... a 3-needle bind-off can done.

My mind wanders, at times, when I'm knitting. (..sigh..) Since I didn't have enough of the pink variegated yarn to make a mate, I ended up making a pair with a different variegated color mix.  Whilst making el-sock-o numero tres, began to wonder what would happen if I continued the knit & dec row all the way up the front panel.  So, grabbed up some more junky, fidget yarn & tried it.  Since I was bloody sick of working in plain garter, decided to throw in a mosaic pattern from Barbara Walker's "Charted Knitting Designs" Here are the results of that endeavor.
If I ever buy a digital camera, there'll be a photo in here. The cool thing about these socks is that they actually stand up all by themselves without any stuffing.
BTW, my scanner really just hates to give me a proper color rendition of any of my yarn. This sock was done using an eye-searing bright red & navy blue.  The scanner translated the red into a yucky orange & I did some cut & paste & masking & lightening & tinting to TRY to get something close to the actual colors. Unfortunately, all that nonsense didn't really work out very well...


...& the mind continues to wander hither & yon, hither & yon.

Another yarn shortage! Not enough blue to make a mate for the red sock... but another idea for yet another variation that might look like a moccasin...To Wit, a "Mock-Moc".  With this variation, I decided to change the heel (I so do not know why) and switch to stockinette stitch because I'd had enough of garter stitch.


Is it possible to have too much fun? Yes, it is. So, here are scans of more fidgets.

The "Mock-Moc" becomes a "Mock-Moc-n-Sox".  It works, but it doesn't rock my world.

This how my scanner translates bright red! Tried to copy the look of a favorite boot & almost made it.

Back to the T-minus with an overall mosaic pattern.

A stab at copying an old sewing pattern.

ONE Pair
The "Fringe - ah, shake me, baby" model with split vamp.

How many pair of slipper sox I've actually made.

Anyway, whenever I feel useful I'll be writing up these patterns, as well.

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